The New Jewelry Designers in Paris

When it comes to jewelry, the Place Vendôme in Paris immediately comes to mind. This area is home to some of the most historic and luxurious brands in the world of high jewelry. Their windows are filled with necklaces, bracelets, and earrings that are the result of meticulous work, specialized expertise, and over a century of experience.

As early as the mid-19th century, the Place Vendôme was considered the address of luxury and Parisian elegance for clothing and hats. However, it was only in 1893, with the opening of the first jewelry store (Boucheron) at the location, that its fame in the jewelry sector began.

Next came other brands and jewelers: Cartier (1899), Chaumet (1902), Van Cleef et Arpels (1906), Técla (specializing in pearls), Mauboussin (1955), Bvlgari and Repossi (Italian brands also from the turn of the 19th to 20th century), and some more contemporary ones like Lorenz Baümer (1994) and Fred (1999).

Riding on its worldwide success, luxury brands from prêt-a-porter like Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton also launched jewelry lines and opened stores at the Vendôme. Dior Joaillerie's designer, Victoire de Castellane, is a celebrity in the field.

The brands found in the Vendôme are those traditional ones, symbols of opulence and wealth, that follow a strict aesthetic standard and, we could say, are not very daring.

In parallel to this world, we have a whole new generation of designers emerging and establishing themselves in the market. Artists and artisans who are not well known to the general public and who have a more free, personal, and contemporary aesthetic.

They usually have few points of sale worldwide, and in Paris, their stores are outside the central reference of the métier.

Their pieces are as luxurious as those of traditional brands, a bit less flamboyant, a bit more artisanal, and even more exclusive. Luxury also extends to them.

We have selected some of these designers to introduce them to you:

A brand created by Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, granddaughter of industrialists in the advertising sector. Her jewelry is geometric, sculptural, and pure, based on straight lines and their spatial combinations. It is the most aligned with the Vendôme aesthetic; not by chance, the brand is the only one on our list that has a store in Place Vendôme.

Address:

• 16 Place Vendôme, 75001 (by appointment only).

Also found at:

• Colette: 213 rue Saint Honoré, 75001

• Bon Marché: 24 rue De Sèvres, 75007

Going in the opposite direction of Maison Dauphin, Marie-Hélène Taillac's jewelry is super colorful and cheerful. The designer highlights precious and semi-precious stones, often liberating them from their "cradle" of metal. Her savoir-faire comes from Hindu artisans whose techniques date back to the time of the maharajas. Marie-Hélène also breaks the paradigm by mixing precious and semi-precious stones in the same piece. Her ring "Cabochon" is stunning.

Address: 8 rue de Tournon, 75006

Van der Straeten began his career as a jewelry designer before moving on to furniture and lighting. His pieces are sculptural, graphic, and have a strong personality. His most famous work is the bottle for Dior's J'Adore perfume, a contemporary icon, just like the Chanel N°5 bottle. Hervé has a gallery in Paris where all his work (jewelry, furniture, mirrors, lighting, and objects) is sold.

Address: 11 rue Ferdinand Duval, 75004

Of all the designers on our list, Aurélie Bidermann is the most recognized and established, frequently appearing in specialized media. Born in the bourgeois 16th arrondissement of Paris, her parents collect Oriental and Art Nouveau artworks. Her jewelry, despite leaning more towards the traditional side, is youthful, light, figurative (leaves, flowers, feathers, insects, wheat), and has a fun aspect (see the "rattle" ring).

Addresses:

• 217 rue Saint Honoré, 75001

• 55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères, 75006

Also available:

• at Printemps: 64 boulevard Haussmann, 75009

• at Bon Marché: 24 rue De Sèvres, 75007

• at Franck & Fils: 80 rue de Passy, 75016

Delfina is Italian and comes from the Fendi family. Although she is not French and does not have her own store in Paris, we included her on this list for the quality of her work. Initially, her surrealist-inspired pieces were figurative (hands, mouths, and eyes), unusual, and fun (while still bearing characteristics of traditional jewelry). Nowadays her work has evolved and moved away from figurative designs. Delfina now emphasizes pure stones, their shapes and colors, and the relationship and balance between them.

Available at:

• Colette: 213 rue Saint Honoré, 75001

• Bon Marché: 24 rue De Sèvres, 75007

White Bird is not a brand but rather a great multi-brand store specializing in jewelry from lesser-known designers. Their selection includes jewelers from various countries and styles. It's a great opportunity to discover what is happening in this vast universe.

Addresses:

• 38 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001

• 7 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75004

This post is part of the series The Secret Luxury in Paris and France sponsored by Air France. Read the other posts in the series: